All That is Good About Vegas
Not Your Father’s Spider Roll
Nov 21st
Jim Begley
Wed, Jul 14, 2010 (6:31 p.m.)
Photo: Beverly Poppe
Sen of Japan (8480 W. Desert Inn) is known for its unique concoctions, and roll No. 17 is no exception. Better known as the spicy spider roll, it consists of soft-shell crab, masago (smelt roe) and spicy aioli, topped with seared salmon and mango and rounded out with a drizzle of sweet chili sauce, fresh lemon juice and shichimi pepper flakes. The $15 roll is the mastermind of mad genius/sushi chef Shinji Shinchiri—spicy balances sweet and hot offsets cold in each perfect bite; the smokiness of the seared toppings completes the holy trinity.
Sweet Home Chicago!
Nov 21st
Harold’s brings chicken and fish straight from Chicago’s South Side
Jim Begley
Wed, Aug 11, 2010 (5:20 p.m.)
Harold’s Chicken Shack
Photo: Beverly Poppe
Chicago is synonymous with many foods: deep-dish pizza, hot dogs, Italian beef, chicken … chicken? Okay, maybe not chicken, but Harold’s Chicken Shack has brought Chicago-style chicken to Vegas nonetheless.
In Chicago, Harold’s is best known for founder Harold Pierce’s vision. Pierce noticed a dearth of mainstream fast-food joints in traditionally black South Side neighborhoods, so he launched the eponymous chicken-shack chain—and it’s become a Chicago institution.
I grew up near Store 43, so I was excited to see a bit of my youth arrive in Vegas. For the uninitiated, the best way to sample Harold’s wares might be a chicken and fish combo: two wings with either catfish fillets or perch, both for around $10. The combo comes with uneventful cole slaw and a mound of passable fries layered above two pieces of white bread, but that’s not why you’re here. Harold’s is about chicken and fish.
You get your choice of hot sauce or ketchup, on the side or on top; go with hot sauce on top with extra on the side for dipping. The fries and bread sop up the sauce, making for spicy side treats while you’re contrasting the delicious chicken and fish. An argument might be made that the cornmeal-battered fish is even better than the chicken, a compliment to the fish more than a slight to the bird.
- Harold’s Chicken & Fish
- 4950 S. Rainbow Blvd., 222-3378
- Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday, 2-9 p.m.
Hot Meat-on-Meat Action!
Nov 21st
Rambo’s burgers and fries aren’t for the faint of appetite
Jim Begley
Wed, Aug 25, 2010 (4:25 p.m.)
The Rambo at Rambo’s Kitchen
Photo: Beverly Poppe
If you’re heading to Rambo’s Kitchen hoping for a peek at Sly behind the grill, you’ll be disappointed. The restaurant in southwest Vegas is named for the owners’ canine friend, not the fictional Vietnam vet. So when you enter Rambo’s, you’re hit not by Stallone but by colors—it’s a kaleidoscope in there, awash with psychedelic tones while vintage memorabilia line the surfaces. Somewhat reminiscent of an aging hippie’s yard sale, don’t let the busy decorating scheme dissuade you, or you’ll miss out on some great cooking.
What started with a hot dog and burger concept has quickly expanded, with a menu offering all your favorite comfort foods, most completely house-made. What isn’t made from scratch is hand-selected and shipped in from around the country.
The menu includes a variety of dishes, including a large selection of burgers and sandwiches. The eponymous Rambo ($9.89) is one of the best burgers I’ve had in some time. It’s stuffed with a blend of American and Swiss cheeses, smothered in pulled pork and BBQ sauce, topped with an onion ring and served with a side of twice-fried fries that put most others to shame. I’m a big fan of topping meat with more meat, particularly when cheese is involved — it’s messy and tasty and reminiscent of the Jucy Lucy of Minneapolis fame. One of Rambo’s owners just happens to hail from the Twin Cities; good thing you don’t have to go that far for such satisfying burger goodness.
- Rambo’s Kitchen
- 6085 S. Fort Apache Road, 722-2626